Quality, precision of California wines at all-time high: Aperture Cellars CEO Jesse Katz

September 17, 2024

Aperture Cellars CEO Jesse Katz in his winery's wine cellar

The quality and precision of California wines is at an all-time high, with talent, technology and understanding of unique terroir playing a key role in elevating tipples from this region to compete with renowned labels from France, Spain, Italy and Argentina.

In this detailed dialogue, Jesse Katz, founder/CEO of Aperture Cellars, explains from his base in Sonoma how his brand has produced several vintages since the winery's founding 15 years ago amidst much competition from domestic and international labels.

"We are not trying to make wines like anywhere else in the world, just trying to make the best wines from our unique sites in each vintage," Mr. Katz said.

The entrepreneur outlines evolving domestic and global demand for American wines, positioning his label, the choice of Sonoma over Napa for the vineyards, distribution strategy, role of experiences on the property, challenges and opportunities, and enticing connoisseurs to his product in a competitive market.

Aperture Cellars at Oliver Ranch. Photo by Rachid Dahnoun

Please read on:

Aperture Cellars has produced several vintages since its founding in 2009. What are your thoughts at this point in your career?
I think that the quality and precision in California wines is at an all-time high with some of the incredible talent, technology and understanding of our unique terroir all coming together.

When starting the brand in 2009 with just a few hundred cases and a concept to make some of the best Cabernets – and now a range of Bordeaux varietals – in the world it was a lofty goal.

There had never been a perfect, 100-point wine, from the region we have been focusing on since our first vintage, like Alexander Valley, and we now have 17 since the 21’ vintage and the only producer in California to have perfect scores in every vintage from 2018 to our current released wines of 2021.

I think we have been able to find some of the most spectacular sites in slightly cooler areas in Northern California for these varietals.

I think this has really played into some of the core values we started Aperture on, as we have always been on the mission to find cooler sites, for Bordeaux varietals, in Sonoma that naturally give us cooler nights and a more moderate growing season.

These unique sites, in particular in the warmer and dryer vintages, have naturally had more acid, freshness and nuance that help showcase what California is so famed for, rich and complex fruit, but with more restraint and balance.

We are starting to plant Cabernet Sauvignon in even cooler areas, like the Russian River AVA, that are more famous for earlier ripening varietals like Pinot and Chardonnay but looking to plant for what can be successful now but also the next generation.

Aperture Cellars at SJ Ranch. Photo by Rachid Dahnoun

How is the domestic and global market for American wines? What is the demand scenario?
It is an interesting time for the wine industry, as a whole, and for the first time in a while we are seeing consumption go down globally.

I think the luxury category is a bit less affected by this trend and some of the more craft producers are still seeing plenty of opportunities.

Thanks to our state-of-the-art facility that we built in 2019 and some of our new estate vineyards and new plantings we, for the first time in the brand's history, have an ability to get the best wines of my career out to more markets and broaden our distribution.

Even in these challenging times, we are seeing growth in our direct to consumer (DTC) and our wholesale clients every year.

We are building a team to support these efforts, and I think we are positioned to continue this growth with some spectacular vintages in barrel and bottle for years to come. Hopefully we will be able to offer more offerings internationally in the next three to five years.

Aperture harvest cellar storybook campaign. Photo by Rachid Dahnoun

How are you positioning Aperture Cellars? Who is your typical customer?
The brand was built from DTC sales and building a following nationwide before we ever had distribution.

We have a broad range of clients that, in general, are a bit younger in demographic than most other wines in our category. I think we are positioned very well as we make classic Nobel varietals in a fresh new way.

What is your production mix between red and white wines?
Because we are mostly estate fruit it depends on the yields for each vintage but ~70 percent reds and 30 percent whites.

Jesse Katz examining product in the harvest cellar. Photo by Rachid Dahnoun

You chose a vineyard in Sonoma as opposed to Napa. What drove that decision? How is the wine produced on your side different?
We have a unique style within Alexander Valley and Sonoma.

We can certainly have the powerful, rich fruit characteristics that people associate with the best of Napa. But then, there’s very fine and silky tannin, with elegance and freshness with a bit higher natural acidity and lower alcohol.

We focus on working with sites that are in the cooler pockets of Sonoma County that work in our favor during most of the spring with cool morning fog, warm sunny days, then cool brisk nights that help to obtain the freshness.

My goal has been to find areas that push the limit of what most would think to plant in these areas and farm them to the highest level.

You’ve been asked this several times, but how do U.S. wines stack up against French and even Italian, Spanish, German and Argentine?
I drink a lot of wines from all over the world and think there are wonderful wines being made globally.

I love making wine in Sonoma and think we have some of the most consistent quality out of any region in the world.

It is exciting to taste the top producers globally and see why our wines are so special and lean into what makes these sites some of the best.

We are not trying to make wines like anywhere else in the world, just trying to make the best wines from our unique sites in each vintage.

Jesse Katz at Aperture harvest cellar. Photo by Rachid Dahnoun

You’re one of the youngest Californian wine brands in the market. What’s the story you tell when you talk to connoisseurs as well as wholesalers, distributors and restaurants?
As we dive into the brand's 15^th vintage, we have accomplished a lot in that time and still have a lot to prove.

I think my diverse experience spanning over 24 harvests at wineries all over the world, along with a passion for travel, fueled my aspiration to learn from the best in the industry.

After graduating from Fresno State’s Department of Viticulture and Enology, I spent time studying in Pétrus in Bordeaux, Screaming Eagle Winery and Robert Foley Winery in Napa Valley, and Viña Cobos and Bodega Noemia in Argentina.

In 2010, I became the youngest head winemaker in the United States at Lancaster Estate and orchestrated the building of the new Roth winery, production facility and tasting room.

Now making some of the most highly rated wines from areas some have overlooked has given me great pride and confidence that the best is yet to come and my best wine has not been made yet.

View from Aperture Cellars' hospitality suite at the vineyard in Sonoma

What sort of experiences do you offer at the vineyard?
Each of our three lush experiences allows guests to enjoy an intimate, seated tasting through our exceptional Bordeaux-style at the modern, state-of-the-art winery surrounded by century-old vines, first planted in 1912.

All tasting experiences are available by prior reservation Thursday-Monday online through Tock or by phone 707-200-7891 or email hospitality@aperture-cellars.com. We ask all guests visiting the property are 21-plus, and that outside licensed service animals, no pets are allowed on property.

The Soil Series Experience ($50 per person) offers a stunning introduction to the breadth of the Aperture portfolio with a journey through our Soil Series collection consisting of Bordeaux-inspired blends from exquisite vineyards in Alexander Valley and greater Sonoma County with unique soil profiles perfectly suited for these varieties.

The Site Series Experience ($75 per person) explores a rare opportunity to dive deep into the curated vineyards of Aperture Cellars while exploring the notion of terroir, focusing on unique cool-climate vineyards in Alexander Valley, and showcasing the site-driven wines from our single-vineyard cabernet sauvignon locations.

The Private Lounge Experience ($125 per person) is our most elevated and in-depth experience showcasing the most sought-after Aperture Cellars wines.

This experience takes place in our pristine private gallery rooms, in a lounge setting with stunning floor-to-ceiling views of our estate vineyard, where guests will be guided through an educational journey served alongside curated food accompaniments.

Aperture Cellars CEO Jesse Katz at a wine-tasting with guests at his winery. Photo by Aubrie-Pick

Talk about your marketing and pricing strategies, especially as you prepare for the year ahead.
Our marketing is to make the best possible wine and tell our unique story.

I feel very fortunate that I have been able to observe how great wines have been made throughout the world in a lot of different styles, climates, regions, soils, etc. from my childhood to my professional career.

Because I was introduced to wine in my early teens through my father’s artwork, the sense of place and artistic approach has always been indoctrinated in me.

I think all of this and my experience making wine all over the world has given me a unique vision of how to look at and find great sites and preserve and showcase the uniqueness of each site and varietal.

Aperture Cellars' Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc wines. Photo by Aubrie Pick

The design of the label on your wine bottles has a family connection, doesn’t it?
All of our labels have a unique piece of art on them, taken by my photographer father Andy Katz.

From where do you get your inspiration for new releases and products?
My inspiration comes from the land and the vintage, along with my amazing team. All world class.

Some of these young vineyards we have planted here at the Aperture Estate in the Russian River AVA, much more well known for its earlier ripening varietals like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, are producing spectacular fresh style of Bordeaux varietals.

This paired with some of our older vineyard sites in the hills that we have been farming for 15-plus years give me great inspiration and joy.

When we release a new wine, and our team gets energized by what they are tasting, knowing the hard work and risk has gone into planting, growing, and making these wines, that is all the inspiration I need. This is not just a job, but this is our passion.

Malbec grape cluster. Photo by Andy Katz

What are the biggest challenges and opportunities you face in 2025 as you attempt to grow your market share?
There are a lot of wines out there and my biggest goal and where we have seen the most success is just getting the wines in people’s glasses.

Once they are introduced to our wines, we usually have a fan that helps spread the word.

Video: Aperture Cellars CEO Jesse Katz on his experience building a winery and global wine business

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